Little Havana....gone Americana

After researching Bayside in downtown Miami - we decided that the marketplace was far too tourista for our tastes, with strip and shopping malls identical to those found anywhere in the US. Restaurants such as Hard Rock Cafe, Bubba Gump and block after block of Starbucks was not the experience we were craving. We can see corporate conglomerate America anywhere. Instead, we wanted to see culture, something unique....we wanted to experience Cuban Miami. We wanted to see and smell the cigar factories, the cuban food, the lifestyle. I wanted to be immersed in Spanish....no English. Bayside - would not do. It is modeled after American culture. We had to visit Little Havana - the authentic Cuban neighborhood in Miami Florida.

What better way to experience Little Havana - than to ride our bicycles to this slice of Cuban culture? It was time to brush up on my Spanish. Hola mi amigos! I had a few phrases memorized, and can distinguish between a dog (un perro) and a car (un carro), and can count from one (uno) to 10 (diez) in espanol. This will have to do for our adventure into Little Havana.

From our marina - the bicycle ride to Little Havana was less than 4 miles each way. We joined up with Catamaran travel mates senor Rick and seniorita Linda for a much anticipated cuban culinary experience. A "local" had recommended Versailles for the best Cuban food, and online reviews were favorable for La Carreta. Both restaurants are located in the same block on 8th Street at 37th Avenue. We could decide once we arrived.

We opted to eat at Versailles. The menu was in English. The food was good, but I had to wonder, with an english menu - was this really authentic Cuban food? The menu has been modified for the gringos....has the food been americanized as well?

Perhaps the scenes of electrified Cubans in the streets, cuban music everywhere and Cuban owned establishments from the days of Elian Gonzales were too vivid in my mind. As we rode our bicycles along block after block of pawn shops, car dealerships and convenience stores - the only difference was the writing on the billboards. Here, the words are in spanish. One car dealership was roasting a pig in the parking lot and blasting cuban music from a boombox. This may have to count as my most memorable cuban experience in Little Havana....gone Americana.

To experience Havana (La Habana), an adventure to Cuba may be required. hmmm....how to get there?

Dinghy adventures...in Biscayne Bay

Living on a mooring ball, 1 mile from land out in Biscayne Bay requires some strategy and forward thinking when making trips to land. Like checking the weather. I live "in the moment". A newbie at living at anchor, and commuting to land.

So, as we rode the dinghy to shore early Saturday morning - for an all-day Endorphin Rendezvous with family in Boca Raton - weather and state of the seas later in the evening, did not enter into my brain. La la la la la, life is good, getting endorphins, hangin' with 'fam....la la la la la.

Some 12+ hours later, as we drove our itsy-bitsy compact rental car thru 2 thunderstorms, and crosswinds which caused lane changes without notice....I started to wonder what the "BB" (Biscayne Bay) might be like for our dinghy ride back to Cat Maudy.

Quik observation: The palm trees along the shoreline were bent over, and flags were flapping wildly. Yes, we have wind. A LOT of wind. Plus, it was a headwind. Waves will be crashing into us.

Anticipating a dunking, I bundled our laundry, and backpacks into plastic trash bags and tied them securely. We piled 3 huge plastic bags into the front of the dinghy.

As we rounded the barrier island (which protects the docked boats at the Dinner Key Marina) , we were met with a WALL of waves. Woa. Big ones when you are in a dinghy. It was dark. The winds were blowing 25 knots from the east. And, I sat, holding on to 3 bags of belongings, and holding up a mini flashlight as our Nav light.

As the waves came crashing over the dinghy, and hitting me in the face, the flashlight seemed no longer important. It was time to hold tight to the dinghy. Wave after wave crashed over the dinghy and into my face. I can assure you that the water IS very salty. I drank a lot of it. Captain Pat was driving, and groaning and moaning with each soaking. We were dripping wet, and I focused on anticipating the waves, and getting to Cat Maudy someway somehow.

Naturally, Cat Maudy is moored (anchored) furthest from shore. This helps ensure that the dinghy turned into a swimming pool, and we were completely drenched. Because the waves were so large, we had to go slow....

Finally, we made it to Cat Maudy....and dragged our water logged bodies on deck. And, sat for a moment, recovering, staring at the Miami skyline....and thinking. Next time....we'll check the weather...

The Perfect Sail...to Miami FL

It's a rare moment when Captain Pat and I agree on sailing conditions. For example, 6' seas are a tad large to me, while Captain Pat doesn't bat an eye. Alternately, 10-15 knot winds is ideal for me, and generally not enough to move the boat for Captain Pat. We spend a LOT of energy negotiating and compromising. It's all good.

Within minutes after the hydraulic repairman evaluated our steering troubles (the RAM's are leaking again!)....we removed the dock lines, and departed the Las Olas Muncipal Marina in Ft. Lauderdale. After waiting for two drawbridges to open, we were in the main shipping channel, with what seemed to be hundreds of fishing boats. Destination....Miami - a short 20 mile ocean hop from Port Everglades.

Today's weather of sunny skies, temperatures in the 70's, a route less than 2 miles offshore, winds from the west at 10-15 knots, no rolling swells and at most 1 foot waves - were PERFECT sailing conditions....from both Captain Wuus (moi) and Captain Pat's vantage points. The water color is a stunning turquoise blue here - and it's easy to become mesmerized by the moment. Cat Maudy reacted with sailing speeds of 7-9 knots. In less than 2.5 hours - we were entering the channel at Port of Miami. (Want to see what the "Perfect Sail" looks like? Watch THIS VIDEO)

Looking back at a month of sailing, motoring, and waiting for weather in dreadfully frigid temperatures and sea state conditions more stressful than relaxing, the voyage south -- was all worth it today. We had finally made it, intact, to Miami. And, we had the Perfect Sail for the final hop along the east coast of the US mainland.

Once inside the Port of Miami, we followed the ICW channel markers south, along Biscayne Bay to the mooring field at Dinner Key Marina. Dinner Key is located in Coconut Grove FL - south of Miami. At a rate of approx $10 per day, Dinner Key seemed to be one of the best cruising deals along the east coast. This rate includes:

- unlimited water taxi

- a pump out boat that comes to you - in the mooring field!

- showers

- dingy dock/landing

...and close proximity to grocery, boater stores, shopping, restaurants, nite life...and opportunities to exercise. The people are genuinely friendly and delightful. Could this be paradise?

But wait. There ARE alligators (and crocodiles?) here. The marina folks have spotted them. hmmm. This will surely impact my kayaking workouts. There will be no carefree, aimless wandering, explore the bay, kayak rides. Rather, I will learn to "sprint kayak" thru the mooring field....and stay far from the grassy waters closer to shore.

FINALLY WARM in Ft. Lauderdale

Somewhere near the Hillsboro Inlet, we noticed our starboard engine shaking violently. Not a good time to be down an engine - when trying to navigate in narrow waterways, wait for drawbridges to open...and contend with strong tidal currents. We were down to one engine, and I had my finger on the VHF ready to hail Tow-Boat US.

As Captain Pat tinkered with the throttle, the engine and all other "boy stuff"....I contacted the Los Olas Municipal Marina - to see if we might be able to afford a slip - while we get the engine situation resolved. Rumor has it that Ft. Lauderdale is very expensive. Miraculously, their rates were reasonable...so I signed us up. Guess we won't be sailing to Miami today...time for boat repairs.

BUT WAIT, Captain Pat working some mechanical genius...got the engine fixed....and we are now back to TWO working engines. Should we continue on to Miami....or check out some Ft. Lauderdale. Opted to stay a night in Ft. Lauderdale.

Turned out to be a fabulous decision. Couldn't have picked a better location - if I knew what I was doing! With temperatures for the FIRST TIME since departure from Maryland in the 70's....we docked at Los Olas Municipal Marina....peeled off the winter jackets, 4 layers of clothing...and wool hats....and morphed into beach babe southerners.

The Los Olas Municipal Marina is located in a perfect setting from my vantage point. With jogging paths and bike lanes everywhere....and 2 blocks from the Swimming Hall of Fame....I could sense that endorphins would soon be running high!

We spent the next 5 days at dockside, soaking up the 70 degree temperatures, getting caught up on computer work and exercise ...and bicycling to the grocery and boat stores - some 5 miles inland.

Low tide, fixed bridges...and making way to Boca Raton

What is boat life like? Pure luxury, champagne all around...and a life a leisure right?

I'll let you know when that happens. In the meantime....I use the binoculars and my zoom-in camera to check the bridge marker every 30 minutes starting at 8:30AM. We need the marker to read 65' or more (simply because we don't trust the measurements anymore!)... Once we get maximum clearance, we'll pull up anchor....and carefully make our way thru. The Lake Worth Inlet is on the other side of the bridge -- which allows us an EXIT to the ocean. The other option is to continue on the ICW....(since we don't have enuf time by now to make the next inlet before nightfall)....and anchor somewhere in Boca Raton.

On the INSIDE (the ICW) between Lake Worth and Ft. Lauderdale - we will have NO fixed bridges to contend with. However, we will have 23 "opening" (drawbridges)....which could mean significant wait time for them to open. Decisions...decisions....decisisons....

By 11:30AM, I could see that the bridge marker would give us maximum clearance for navigation. With what STILL appeared as minimal clearance....we barely made it under this final bridge. At least, we're done with fixed bridges on the ICW!

We opted to continue travel on the ICW....with the hopes that we could get close enough to Ft. Lauderdale -- for an ocean sail the next day - to Miami. Jello plan...subject to change!

As we approach the more affluent areas south of Lake Worth - notice that both the drawbridges and waterfront properties look like castles.

ICW to Lake Worth

Irregardless of your views about global warming, I can assure you from a "water" or boating standpoint -- that either one of two items are happening along the ICW:

a) either the folks who design and construct the bridges can't do basic math or
b) the water levels are rising.

Let me 'splain. FIXED bridges...that span over the intra coastal waterway (ICW) are supposted be 65 feet in height -- as measured by MEAN HIGH TIDE. This means....on the average high tide....a boat with air draft of 63.5 feet (like ours)....should be able to get under the bridge without ripping off the mast. The math that I took back in high school....tells me I should have a 1.5 feet of clearance at the AVERAGE high tide.

But, something is VERY wrong here. On LOW tide....we find only 64 feet in bridge height -- which gives us that breathtaking, heart palpitating - 6 full inches of clearance. So, maybe you can help me understand....whats up with that? Are all of the architects and construction workers using a different math these days? Or....are the water levels getting higher and higher. You decide. The next time I think it's a good idea to travel along the ICW....please kick me.

We reach our final FIXED bridge to navigate under before nightfall. Unfortunately, the timing puts us at precisely high tide. Considering the lack of room our mast clears at LOW tide....we opt to anchor for the nite just north of this fixed bridge. Our next low daylight tide....is 11AM Tuesday. We drop anchor and collapse with exhaustion over the stress of these fixed bridges.

Ft. Pierce FL...and Captain Wuuuus

With temperatures NOW in the upper 20's and low 30's...ocean coastal sailing in our open cockpit is downright unappealing. We decided to "drive the ditch" to the next inlet (Lake Worth) - and see if the weather might be any better. To do so, someone has to climb the mast - and bring down all of the goodies on top (tri-color light, anemometer, weather vane) - so that they don't collide with one of the 5 fixed bridges between Ft. Pierce and Lake Worth Florida.

It was time for me (aka Captain Wuuuus) to man up and give the mast climb a whirl. In 35 degree temps and 18 knot winds....I attempted my first mast climb. Locked in snug in our new bosun's chair and safety harness....Pat hoisted me upward. All is good at the first spreader (20 feet in the air)....but not so good at the second spreader (45 feet in the air). By now, my hands were frozen from grabbing the mast....the wind pushed me around....and Captain Wuuuus needed to return back to earth. Pronto. Maybe next time. For now, I handed the job over to the pro....Captain Pat...who made the climb...and descent without incident. Whew.

Bundled with many layers of clothes, we now wait for low tide in the AM....and depart Ft. Pierce.

Waiting on weather...Ft Pierce style

While waiting on the right weather window in Ft Pierce Florida - we took the opportunity get caught up on Cycon work, monitor every detail of the weather, and tour the local landmarks.

Local landmarks include:

- the Publix supermarket

- West Marine

- the marina laundromat

- Fort Pierce Inlet State Park

Which one of these sounds the most exciting? No, not the marina laundromat. Try the Fort Pierce Inlet State Park. They charge $2.00 for bicyclists to enter the park...which is a small price to pay considering my need for endorphins. Once inside the park, I revved up my bike cadence, got locked into a delightful spin....and noticed a cop tailing me through the park. Was I doing something wrong? I paid the $2 entry fee. Curiosity got the best of me. I had to stop and ask "why are you tailing me?".

What do you think the response was? Take this simple quiz:

a) I am biking too fast

b) I am biking too slow

c) They have never seen a bicyclist before

d) It is a slow day in the park...and not much else to do

If you guessed "D"....you would be correct! Glad I could provide entertainment to Ft. Pierce park police.

Back to monitoring the arctic weather in Florida...an excerpt below from the Weather Channel:

Across Florida, the weather was freakishly cold for a state that's a winter respite for so many. There were snow flurries spotted in several parts of the state, as far south as Naples on the gulf coast. In Miami, the temperature was forecast to drop just below freezing overnight and threatened to break the record for low temperatures in the city.

In perhaps a bit of an understatement, Melbourne-based National Weather Service forecaster Bob Wimmer said it was an "unusual weather event."

As the arctic cold began to ease in some parts of the nation, residents in northern Florida were under a hard freeze warning with temperatures expected to drop to 20 or below overnight.

In the Florida Keys, a tropical paradise where people usually pay attention to the heat index, a term more often reserved for Northerners was being used: wind chill. Gusts were predicted to make the air feel like the upper 20s.

Ice sailors...Cape Canaveral to Ft Pierce

Apparently Canada is MAD at the US. I'm guessing it's something we said. All of the cold air that normally stays in Canada for the winter -- is now on permanent loan to Florida.

With no end in sight for the frigid temperatures in central and southern Florida - we decide to depart Cape Canaveral, and sail offshore for a day hop to Ft Pierce. By 6AM, the temperatures were 35 degrees. The winds were 15-20 knots from the northwest, putting the wind chills into the 20's. Nice.

These are temperatures you would expect off the coast of Alaska in the Bearing Sea. NOT Florida. Florida is "The sunshine state". The place where snowbirds descend in the winter to ESCAPE the cold. The place where your arthritis suddenly disappears. The place where you wear t-shirts and shorts year round. I should be SWEATING here... Still, we remain hopeful, that someday we'll experience heat.

The sea state turned out to be favorable for a day hop to Ft Pierce. Following seas, steady winds from the northwest...and some rollers. OK, the rolling swells were a bit large -- in the 4-6' range -- but not uncomfortable, as we stayed tight (within 3 miles) to the coastline.

Highlights of the voyage include:

- I've lost all feeling in my hands and toes
- our rudder worked today....no more traveling in circles!
- fastest speed of the day - 12 knots with a reefed main
- I saw frost in Paddy's beard
- we are now 60+ miles further south
- the temperatures are not any warmer in Ft Pierce
- snow is predicted in Orlando
- with 6 layers of clothing, I now resemble the Michelin man

Waiting on weather...and touring Port Canaveral

All weather forecasts were predicting 4-6' waves out of Cape Canaveral. Seemed a bit large for my 'weenie sailor' comfort zone, so we opted to wait for calmer seas. In the meantime, I had to SEE what these 4-6' waves looked like...up close...in person.

Time for power walk to Jetty Park - located at the inlet to Cape Canaveral. Jetty Park is a delightful campground and beach walker paradise. The walk TO Jetty Park from Cape Marina is filled with Cruise line ports - with huge buildings and enormous parking lots. Not much of a visual, providing all the more inspiration to walk at a fast clip.

I imagined huge walls of water breaking over the jetty. Probably even bigger waves than were forecasted. Yeah right. The sea state was perfectly calm. Sure, the breeze was stiff...but hardly a wave rocking the fishing boats - close to shore. I realized that close to shore (for northwest winds) was the place to be. If 4-6' waves looks like this, then I'm ready to sail!

Titusville to Cape Canaveral FL

As the citrus crops in Florida get a week of record freezing temperatures - we are, in the midst of central Florida, trying to go south...and stay warm. It is obvious at this point, that I packed the wrong set of clothing for this trip. It's also obvious, that this year -- south means Brazil. Florida is not south enough. T-shirts and shorts? Forget that. 4-6 layers of everything I own is now the norm.

With great pain, I unplug our 50 amp shore power at the Titusville Marina - and remove any last hope of heat for the next 3 hours. We can heat our salon only when at dock. Away from dock? It's all about consuming hot tea, hot soup, and trying not to think about the numbness in your toes.

Fortunately, the ICW trip from Titusville to Cape Canaveral FL is short. No fixed bridges to navigate under (whew!), and every bascule bridge opened for us as we approached. At one point, the seagulls mistook our boat for a fishing vessel - and chased us for hours. This was the highlight of the trip - for Soxy.

We plan to stay at Cape Marina in Cape Canaveral (and grab more heat) for the nite - and then depart offshore to Ft. Pierce the next day. Only 3 problems. The sea state was looking a bit feisty, the temperatures would be in the low 30's, and there was no marina availability in Ft Pierce. Apparently a sport fishermen tourney is happening -- and all dock spaces are taken. Thus, we would have to anchor in Ft. Pierce with no heat. Ugh. After analyzing weather, wind direction, wave height, off shore buoys, temperatures, for hours - we decided to procrastinate the final offshore decision until the next morning. Maybe things would change? Maybe it would warm up?

For now, we've reunited with Cat travel mates Rick & Linda (MakeItSo) in Cape Canaveral. Dinner plans were made for a nearby seafood restaurant called FishLips. A local Yachtie-Yachta friend of R&L (Maryanne) offered to drive. It appears that our most pressing dilemma, was to figure out how to fit 5 people in a mini-Cooper. It can be done!

Highlights of Titusville FL

Should the NASA program at Cape Canaveral ever get scuttled, the town of Titusville FL would most likely disappear. Not that there is much town here to begin with!

Some elements of Titusville, have already moved on. The Post Office for example. Don't waste your time looking for a mailbox here. When the Post Office left Main St. Titusville one year ago, it appears that they grabbed all of the neighborhood mailboxes as well. Not one mailbox to be found here.

While searching for that elusive mailbox, we stumbled onto the the Space Walk Hall of Fame (housed in an ol' 7-11 style building). The Space Walk Hall of Fame is run by retired NASA employees, who want to ensure that the NASA history is preserved. They collect donated items from NASA employees (such as clothing and space suits), and even house the NASA command center from the 1960's (which was once destined for some NASA dumpster). We spent an hour learning NASA-speak....and felt thoroughly educated (for the day) from our delightful tour guides.

As we departed, and made a donation, the retired NASA folks volunteered to mail my letter for me. Who needs a mailbox? Love small towns!

ICW, Mosquito Lagoon to Titusville

It's hard to describe the tranquility at Mosquito Lagoon. With winter temperatures in the 50's -- there were no mosquitoes here! This area is a vast body of shallow water, in between the barrier island and the mainland in central Florida. Utterly peaceful, quiet and undisturbed views abound.

There is no shortage of dolphins, pelicans - and an underwater world that I can only "guess" at beneath the surface. Manatees? We've seen plenty of signs about the manatees - but have yet to see any.

By 7:30AM, Cat Maudy & MakeItSo brought up anchors...and began travels south on the ICW. Today's destination would be Titusville FL (for us), and Cocoa Beach (for MakeItSo). If we weren't so stressed about the fixed bridges (3 in Cocoa Beach) - we would be joining our travel mates for New Year's Eve celebration in Cocoa. But alas, we would end 2009 at Titusville - and see what this town has to offer.

The marina staff located us on the "Party Dock" (the E Dock). Pilings are decorated in Christmas paper, and boats are glowing in Christmas lights. It appears that happy hour has already started (well before noon!) - and the folks are super friendly. I hope the party dock won't be too disappointed when I become drowsy around 8PM.

Pat and I immediately took off to explore the "town". Titusville is quaint, small - and offers a coffee and gourmet chocolate shop (which also serves lunch)-- so I can't imagine what else is necessary here? Lunch menu includes vegetarian foods. Life is VERY good.

Later that day - we ventured into the closest supermarket - called the "SAVE A-LOT". The prices are UNHEARD of. It's as if I hopped a ride to the past (30 years ago). Pasta....30 cents a box. Bread....89 cents. Cat food....cans the size for dogs...and 4 for a dollar. There will be much time spent at the SAVE A LOT as we provision up for the next 30 days!

Apparently the manatees hover in the marina where we are docked. Unfortunately, 2 days before our arrival...they left...and headed south. I think the manatees have the right idea. Temperatures in the next few days will be in the 30's at night. C'mon Florida -- give a girl a little heat OK?

Happy New Year!

ICW, bridge drama and the poo police

I awoke to a brisk 48 degrees inside of Cat Maudy. Soxy was glued to me under the covers and it was obvious that we had not yet reached "the south".

Today would be a full day of motoring on the ICW, with many 65' fixed bridges to navigate under. Rumor has it, that the water levels are up. In addition, the state of Florida has "adjusted" some of the bridge water markers to reflect the low hanging LIGHT instead of the fixed bridge height. Thus, you wouldn't know if the marker was for the fixed bridge...or the low hanging light.

Cat Maudy needs 63'8" to navigate under the bridges and clear the mast. I dusted off my digital Stanley "measure stick" and began practicing to hit distances 60+ feet above me. We need an accurate read on the bridges to assess if there was sufficient height for clearance.

The first fixed bridge of the day -- we came upon nearly at high tide. Pat navigated slowly under the bridge allowing me to do my belly-flop on the bow, and press the "measure" button on Stanley until I could get a read. Luck was in our favor! I got 2 reads on the bridge -- both at 62'. Add approximately 4 feet for the bow above the water line -- and this gives us 66' clearance. 2 full feet of glorious room to spare. It was a good start to our day -- and we easily cruised under this bridge.

The 2nd bridge we came to -- was at lower tide -- should be easy to get under eh? Same routine, Captain Pat inched us up to the bridge - and my first read shows 60'. AIIIIIII! My second read - confirms 60' feet of clearance. Add this to our 4' from the bow line....and we've only got a few INCHES to clear. OMG.

Our travel mates Rick & Linda on MakeItSo - decided to give it a try. I cringed as I watched their mast BARELY clear. This would be painful. With a huge leap of faith, and cheers from the fishermen along the banks near the bridge....Cat Maudy - with only inches to spare...made it under this bridge. My body began to ache from the stress. Hopefully the remaining 7 fixed bridges we would navigate under....would not be this painful.

At this point, MakeItSo takes the lead under the fixed bridges - and we calibrated the remaining bridges based on the clearance that MakeItSo achieved. One bridge was marked as 63 feet -- tho actually it had more like 66 feet of clearance. Another was marked at 64 feet....and by now Pat and I were complete basket cases of nerves.

There must be A LOT of car traffic in Daytona FL. Bridges are constructed everywhere.-- connecting the mainland to the barrier island. In approximately 5 miles, we encountered 6 fixed bridges. Most of the bridges were excruciating close encounters. My thoughts are focused on getting south of Daytona -- so that we would be done with fixed bridges on our travels to Cape Canaveral. Just one more bridge to go.

But wait! We're being chased by the boat Sheriff! And, this is not just the "Sheriff"....it's the POO police! Yep, they boarded our boat - to inspect our toilets....to make sure that "bad stuff" did not escape into the waterways. The POO police dropped bright yellow dye into the toilet...and then flushed away. In true Cat Maudy always-in-need-of-repairs form, ...the toilet with the fresh dye overflowed all over INSIDE of our boat -- spilling the dye everywhere. Oops. Minor detail. I forgot to tell the Sheriff that head doesn't work.

So, you're wondering "what about the other working head?" YES, of course we are compliant with POO rules! No yellow dye escaped into the water. By now, Soxy was meowing wildly. Who was this sheriff intruder? If he wants to inspect POO -- Soxy has a lovely litter box to demo. Just please keep the dye away thank you. We said goodbye to the friendly poo police in Daytona.....there would be no fining Cat Maudy today. Just another toilet to fix.

Gradually, the currents in the ICW began working against us, and our motoring speeds slowed. We would not make it to our destination at Titusville FL. Instead, we would anchor at Mosquito Lagoon for the night - and enjoy temperatures in the upper 50's.

Heat seeking sailors...

37 degrees in St. Augustine FL? I had to look twice at the thermometer just to be sure. It couldn't possibly be 37 degrees -- after all, we are in FLORIDA! But, we are still too far NORTH. And, as much as St. Augustine is a very cool place to hang....it's just not cool at these temperatures.

After multiple conversations with our travel mates Rick and Linda on catamaran MakeItSo, we abandoned the notion to sail offshore in these temperatures. It looks like we'll be staying in St. Augustine til after New Years. But wait...after checking the weather for Jan 1....it is forecasted to be even COLDER than today. Time for a new plan....

The dreaded ICW is now the option of choice. Instead of waiting 4-5 days for the next blast of northerly winds, in 2 1/2 days, we could be in Cocoa Beach...further south....with more heat. This would make it far more palitable when sailing offshore when that next northerly wind window appears. The plan? Day 1 would be a very short hop. 14 miles on the ICW - til we reach our anchorage near the Matanzas Inlet. Day 2 plan....somewhere south of Daytona Beach....and New Years Eve - in Cocoa Beach. Let the warming begin.

Rudder repairs

The port side rudder was LOCKED into place. It would not turn - making steering Cat Maudy a challenge. So when we paid a visit to the St. Augustine Marine Center - (who were short on staff due to the December holidays) - we weren't sure what to expect. Would Cat Maudy need to wait a week to get hauled out for rudder repairs? Could the rudder be repaired with Cat Maudy in the water by the skeleton staff?

To our amazement, the moment we arrived at dock - we were greeted by a team of repair specialists -- who immediately determined that (a) they could repair the rudder without removing Cat Maudy from the water and (b) they would assign Ronnie to work on it right away. Talk about SERVICE!!!

Ronnie and Pat wrestled the rudder off the boat....and wheeled it to the Shop for repairs. The rudder was lifted, so that the shaft could rest on a vice grip....while the bearings and rudder could be dismantled. The end result? The shaft was not bent....the bearings were fine....but the aluminum shaft had corroded around the bearing....causing it to expand and exert pressure on the bearing...and locking up the ability to turn the rudder. Sheezz....a lot of details. I need to go for some exercise.

By 4PM (6 hours after we arrived)...the shaft had been cleansed of corrosive pixie dust, barrier goo applied to prevent further corrosion, the rudder assembly restored and returned back onto the boat. Cat Maudy has steering again!!!! Many thanks to the staff at the St. Augustine Marine Center. You guys rock!

The Sheepshead are biting!

Our new found fishermen buddies Holland and Shawn found some of the best fishing grounds inside of the St. Augustine Inlet, and only a few yards away from Cat Maudy. Naturally I cheered like a wild woman when Holland caught his first Sheepshead fish (the fish that have human like teeth). Sssshhhhhh. Cheering for a fisherman would be "incorrect". No need to attract OTHER fisherman to this hotspot - so I promised to keep the commotion down when the next fish was caught.

Time to buy my Florida fishing license. I imagined fresh catch for dinner every night. Perhaps, I wouldn't know what to do if I were to catch a fish....wouldn't know how to kill it....and surely wouldn't know how to fillet it. But those are details that can be dealt with another day.

Here's what I learned from our fishing friends:
- you can keep 15 sheepshead per person per day. That's a lotto fish!
- the bait is an itsy bitsy crab thing
- chum by scraping off the barnacles near a dock or bridge piling
- then add some broken up mussels to add to the chum flavor
- put your hook down...and start reelin' em in!

The H&S fishing team caught 24 fish that day....just 6 short of their daily limit for 2 people. And, not only did they donate 2 of these fish to us....but took the time to show us how to fillet them! Thanks Shawn & Holland....our fresh sheepshead fish dinner was truly divine!

Christmas-time in St. Augustine FL

Christmas Eve at the Pizzeria and Christmas day at the Columbia Restaurant in historic St. Augustine - with CAT mates Rick & Linda (MakeItSo), Larry & Karen (Chateau sur la Mer), Shelly and Lynn (Anythings Pawsible).

The jammin' and Christmas sounds of St. Augustine made for a festive atmosphere as we took a break from thinking about boat repairs and how to pay for them!

Christmas nite? Listened to live jazz cuban music, shared more yachtie yachta stories about places we've been, cheap marinas, expensive marinas, the desire to travel to cuba, and yes indeedie - that darn salsa dancing is harder than you think! Soon we'll be departing our separate ways, with new cruising destinations...and surely to meet up again.

Solstice plus 1 overnite sail from Charleston SC to St. Augustine FL

5:30AM, on December, 22, (the day after solstice, and the second shortest daylight hour day), a convoy of 3 catamarans departed the Charleston Harbor in SC. The temperatures were a balmy 45 degrees, and light winds. After waiting dockside for 6 weeks due to a series of excuses such as: work, inertia, flu, boat repairs, convoy coordination, cold weather, too windy weather and more -- the conditions were finally "perfect" - from my standpoint. Lite winds...cold, but not freezing...and 3 catamarans ready to go.

Rick and Linda's catamaran MakeItSo won the prize for the most boat repairs in a 48 hour period (AIS, navigation lights and a brand new battery charger installed only 12 hours earlier, and countless reboots to see if anything would improve). Our boat, Cat Maudy took a very close second place award, with it's ongoing rudder mal-alignment issue, and sails that require a crew of 5 to hoist. Larry and Karen's boat Chateau sur la Mer, was short on diesel and running on fumes (without wind and the use of sails), but Karen skillfully cooked up bean soup to the rescue! Yes, the conditions were perfect for a 200 mile offshore overnight cruise!

Jane’s Boat logs:
12.22 8AM Conditions Calm & Lumpy – I can live with this
12.22 10AM MakeItSo hugs shoreline for Internet connection. I aim for MakeItSo.
12.22 11AM No seas at all – lovely!! Metabolism is in overdrive. Eating every 2 hours. Maybe this is nothing new?..I suppose I normally eat every 2 hours...
12.22 1PM Pat wants to hoist the main. I need to workout more. Sail is too big. I insist on 1 reef – you never know when big winds suddenly appear.
12.22 2PM lite air – thank u jesus
12.22 3PM steering problems. I have to tether on the port pulpit…and dangle over the rudder to release the hydraulics. Joy! What’s with this POS rudder?
12.22 6PM last stitch of twilight. Visibility nil. Stars and moonlite. I hope our radar works. Soxy is not herself. I have to hold her a lot.
12.22 10PM Pat sleeps. I head the boat toward shore.
12.23 midnite Cat Maudy and MakeItSo share radar, navigation and AIS info. What a wonderful world
12.23 1AM What’s up with these freak’in rudders? I get to dangle over the port pulpit again. I hope Jaws isn’t waiting for me.
12.23 3AM Pat sleeps. La la la….all is good. HOLY SH*# there is a huge freighter directly in front of me!!!!!!!! Take evasive maneuvers. I’m wide awake now. Can’t wait for daylight
12.23 4AM A little breeze is appearing. Hope it stays little. Why is the air from the south? Soxy is not eating.
12.23 6AM daylite cannot come soon enuf. We’re getting winds from the East. It’s supposto be from the north. Wrong again!
12.23 8AM little itsy bitsy breeze is causing the seas to act up? Getting lumpy.
12.23 10AM Pat is diggin’ the breeze. Down to 1 engine, motor sailing at 7.5 knots. It’s actually OK. As long as it doesn’t get feisty.
12.23 1PM We approach St. Augustine inlet. I bring down the main. It’s a monster…takes forever allowing me to bounce around and try to hang on. Oh yeah, I get to dangle over the rudder again. We need steering to get thru the inlet.
12.23 2PM Soxy is no longer talking to us. I’m guessing motion sickness.
12.23 6PM Soxy is back to being our pal

Pat’s Boat Logs
12.22 10AM Karen makes bean soup for Larry. Suddenly, they are catching air! Head out further from shore.
12.22 12PM Busted No wind. 1 engine (starboard) to save fuel.
12.22 1PM Radio communication w/Larry down and back w/Rick. Hoisted Main. Waiting for wind
12.22 3PM steering problems persist. I recalibrate from the helm.
12.22 5PM Larry sleeps. Too much bean soup.
12.22 8PM Jane sleeps. I head Cat Maudy out away from shore.
12.23 1AM recalibrate the rudders every 2 hours now. Steering is bad.
12.23 3AM Jane wakes me up and is fussing about a freighter. Yep, she almost hits it.
12.23 5AM Jane makes me a grilled cheese ‘sammie. 5knots apparent from the east. Hope to unfurl the jib by dawn.
12.23 7AM Unfurl the jib – we are now motor sailing. Hoping for more wind.
12.23 2PM Wait 30 min for the Bridge of Lions to open. Our marina is on the other side of the bridge
12.23 3PM Secured at dock.

Northwest winds did not exist, and any winds were from the south. This provided the benefit of warmer weather, along with the accompanying concern that the forecasters got this one completely wrong. North west winds should clock to North...then North East....but southerly winds (albeit very light) should not have been in our weather window. And why were they clocking east? I could see the potential for big seas erupting. But, they didn't. At least until after we arrived at St. Augustine.

32 hours later, we arrived at St. Augustine, FL and successfully avoided mating Right whales, and becoming bowsprits on incoming freighters at the St. Simon Inlet. Even with starlit nighttime skies, and radar hinting that a "blip" might be important, you just can't see a thing in the dark. Including inbound freighters at the St. Simon inlet.

At the end? 3 catamarans...intact, Boat repair list...expanding. 6 crew members....exhausted. And more cruising stories to tell. It was time to make plans to celebrate Christmas, in St. Augustine.

Thanksgiving at the Charleston Maritime Center

As cruisers arrived at the Charleston Maritime Center - Dockmaster Bob generously volunteered to OPEN the KITCHEN doors and the adjacent conference room to cruisers for a Thanksgiving feast.   Living on a boat, I have learned to cook with a single propane cooktop burner - which basically means I skip the cooking notion altogether and just make salads.   Now, a REAL kitchen means microwave open, a real oven that you can fit more than a fistful of food, larger than human sized refridgeration and a sink with running hot water.   Thanksgiving can't come soon enough!

What began as a carefully choreographed meal plan for 8 - quickly morphed into a free-for-all mealplan to feed 28.   Nobody knew what food choices were being selected for the pot-luck dinner - but with a full sized kitchen, and a bunch of hungry cruisers, it was destined to be a feast.   The traditional turkey and ham, was supplimented by even more turkey...a pork tenderloin...Bob's special Fish Stew - and an assortment of side dishes with enough food to feed a  crew of 50!

There were no shortages of dessert - from apple pie, cherry pie, pecan pie, chocolate cake, cranberry pie and key lime pie to name a few.   Bellies were full, waistlines expanding and the atmosphere was filled with delightful chatter, talk of next port destinations and of course, boat repairs!   Thanksgiving in Charleston - cruiser style!